Chainsanity

There are many challenges to biking in the winter in Minnesota, most of which would be obvious even to your average Hawaiian: the cold, the ice, the lack of free espresso on the bike trails. All of these are manageable (perhaps with the exception of the 'free' part) through trial and error, asking other bikers for tips and the like. However, one aspect I still find frustrating is maintaining a well functioning drive train throughout this season of grime and muck. Readers of this blog know I complain about chains and their very poor design for sandy, wet, and salty conditions.  When chains are dirty they don't shift, they skip, and they even break (happened 2x to me).

Some, like intrepid author of the MNBicycleCommuter blog have leapt into the future using very cool belt driven systems with internal gearing. I may eventually get there but for now I have arrived at a solution that works for me. So, at the risk of eliciting giggles from the the spandex crowd, here is my secret to keeping the chain problem free throughout the dirt and slop of winter riding.

At the end of a week of riding my chain is covered in mud, salt (notice the rack bolt), and general grossness.

First, I use the wonderful SRAM powerlink to quickly snap the chain off and soak it in two rounds of mineral spirits. This removes not only the gunk but the chain lube that is trapping the gunk.

Next, I wipe the chain down to prepare for lubrication. This particular chain has some surface corrosion but isn't stretched. 

Some time ago I read on a blog, which one I wish I could remember now, a suggestion to use chainsaw oil for bikes. My previous experience with the high tech wax and teflon 'dry' lubes was really bad in the winter since they washed off so easily and left the chain exposed to rust. Chainsaw oil seemed like a reasonable alternative: being petroleum based it is naturally water repellent and is meant to stick to the fast moving chain of a chainsaw. If you look for it it may also be called 'bar and chain' oil and you will find it is incredibly cheap when compared with bike specific lubricants. All the same I have just been experimenting with it for one season so can't say if there are strange side effects but so far, so good. 

The chain goes into the jar of chainsaw oil. 

I rotate chains every week so I will let this sit for a few days.

Once I take out the chain I hang it on a nail to let the excess oil drip off. I wipe it down and put it back on the bike, which is sometimes difficult because the thing is now quite slippery.

When this chain is on my bike the second chain is taking an oil bath and will be ready for next week's riding.

This routine is kind of involved but so far the results have been good. I haven't worn out a chain yet this season and everything just feels smooth. You don't want to have a breakdown in the middle of a blizzard or subzero temps so until I get that belt drive setup, this seems to be the right solution for winter riding.

Science of batteries

I recently bought what I would consider my first 'serious' bike light: 300 lumens, rechargeable batteries, sears the eyeballs if you stare at it long enough. I had been a satisfied user of the Cateye Opticube which has an obnoxious blinking mode and gets enough attention from vehicles. I also ride with various red blinkies on the sides and back to be visible from all angles.

One of the big differences between the 'serious' bike lights and the blinkies has to do with battery life. The people who make my NiteRider Mini-Newt 300 USB are very aware that generating a high quantity of light sucks power big time. Hence, the battery pack is made of rechargeable Lithium-ion batteries which need to be recharged about every 3 - 4 hours of use. Other manufacturers of rechargeable bike lights have standardized on this type of battery as well.

The great thing is they are easily charged, either by an A/C power adapter or plugging in to a USB port on the computer. However, the obsessive part of me is troubled to learn that there is an optimum cycling of discharge/recharge in order to prolong battery life. Did you know, for example, that you can almost triple the life of your batteries by never discharging them by more than 50% of their capacity? Or, did you know that storing your batteries at 100% of charge for extended periods of time is actually detrimental to overall capacity? Where can one find such great info: at Battery University, of course!
 
I should note that I bike in town, there is lighting in many areas but there are also lots of cars. While I don't usually need to light the trail, I do need to be seen. Because of the brightness of this new light and the fact I can easily recharge I now leave the thing on full. The increased margin of safety certainly seems huge since I find cars anticipating my approach more than trying to cut in front of me. Maybe I am just blinding them!

Happy Winter Minnesota?

One of the questions I get relating to this blog has to do with the use of '365' in the title. The idea is simply that I want to explore the idea of biking throughout the year. Not just when it is 70 degrees, not when it is 10 AM and sunny, not Saturdays only but year round. This isn't a tough guy thing, just that biking can be a year round activity even in the frozen, cold North of Minnesota.

Which brings me to this year. Today's weather almanac for our area shows the record low temperature was -27 and the normal high is 22. However, today's high was in the mid 40s so we have a potential temperature range for January of almost 70 degrees. This is insane. Even more insane is the Spring-like feeling of cruising home tonight in the complete darkness of winter wearing short sleeves. I am rather cold-tolerant but consider the comparison that January often brings temperatures that kill people. Literally. I will say today was plenty comfortable.

We will have the multiple feet of snow, the frozen earlobes, and glare ice but for now, I am enjoying our pseudo-Spring.

Keep the wheels turning, anytime.